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.Published 2007
Papri—hyacinth, or field, beans (Dolichos lablab)—appear at farmers’ markets in the late summer. The first arrivals are small, celadon-colored crescent beans edged in bright purple. Filipino vendors are the usual growers. At least once a year, I make umbaryu, papri with other vegetables and kavabs cooked in a claypot to be opened at the table. The pungent and slightly bitter quality of papri is offset by the other ingredients. In rural Gujarat, umbaryu<