Cambodian Hot-and-Sour Seafood Soup

Of all the hot-and-sour soups of Southeast Asia, this is probably the least complicated to make. Two chefs at the Grand Hotel d’Angkor showed me how to prepare and cook it. The fish they used was, of course, a freshwater species, for Siem Reap is just a few kilometres from the Tonle Sap, the ‘Great Lake’ that has supplied the Khmers with fish and watered their rice fields for 2,000 years. In England, I make this soup with carp or grouper, when I can get them. Failing one of those, my choice