One of my earlier books had a section on Chinese cooking and in researching it I learned a lot by watching Chef Simon Yung in the Chinese kitchen of the Dorchester Hotel in London. A few years later I met him again, almost by chance, in Singapore, where he is the Head Chef of the renowned Empress Room restaurant in the Raffles Hotel. This is my version of the soup that I enjoyed so much on that occasion. The broth can be either chicken stock or vegetable stock, and the ‘eig