Fresh Shiitake Stuffed with Vegetable Tartare

I first came across this idea of vegetable tartare in a Southeast Asian restaurant, but I am not sure whether it got its name because the dressing is like tartare sauce or because the whole thing resembles Russian salad. Made carefully at home and served on pan-fried fresh shiitake mushrooms, it is delicious. (Fortunately, the days of rubbery reconstituted dried shiitake are fast receding.) I like to serve this as a starter with a salad of rocket and orange segments.

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