Cappello di Gendarme

Gendarme’s Cap, a Calzone from Lecce

Preparation info

  • Makes 2 calzone, to serve

    6 to 8

    • Difficulty


Appears in

In Nonna's Kitchen

In Nonna's Kitchen

By Carol Field

Published 1997

  • About

This filled focaccia with its strange name first appeared when the Bourbons ruled the south of Italy. The bakers of Lecce deep in the region of Apulia must have been inspired by the hats the gendarmes wore—Napoleon’s famous headgear had the very same shape—and decided to form their focaccia in homage.



  • 2 teaspoons dry active yeast or cake (½ ounce) fresh


By hand

Sprinkle the yeast over the warm water in a small bowl, whisk it in, and let stand until creamy, about 10 minutes. Stir in the olive oil. Mix the flour and salt, make a mound of it in a large bowl or on a well-floured work surface, and then make a large well in the center. Gradually pour the dissolved yeast mixture into the well, working the