Pasta con la Rucola

Arugula grows wild in many regions of Italy, where its leaves can be as fine as baby spinach or as large as dandelion greens with stems as thick as watercress. Some arugula is spicy, some strong and pungent; fine tender leaves work best in this dish. It’s no surprise that arugula often appears in salad, but grandmothers in Apulia have another trick up their collective sleeve. They stir it into a pasta sauce just long enough for the peppery green to wilt and be warmed. The result, as Italian