Pollo alla Contadina

Many people in the Tuscan countryside have raised chickens, ducks, and rabbits and cooked them interchangeably in recipes like this one. Duck and rabbit may be harder to find and cost more than chicken in America, but tell that to a Tuscan contadina and you’ll get a look of surprise. If you use rabbit, cook it an extra 15 or 20 minutes, but otherwise all instructions are exactly the same. Emma Grassi Bensi’s addition of nutmeg and grated lemon zest gives the sauce an elegan