Tlario Taus was once the mayor of Corinaldo, a lovely walled town in the green depths of Le Marche, and he took very seriously my search for grandmothers who cooked local food. When he suddenly remembered a spectacular celebration at the local wine cooperative for which two older women made immense pans full of baccalà layered with potatoes and tomatoes, we leaped in his car and went for a visit. There they were, Marinella Rugini and Gina Baccolini<
