Involtini di Cavolo

I’ve spent my whole life at the stove,” says Vittoria Genovese, who lives in the tiny village of Nicola, population 120. “I’m so used to being in the kitchen that I don’t think it’s tiring—anyway, all my grandchildren come and keep me company.” She started cooking in summer visitors’ colonies when she was fifteen and for a while cooked at one restaurant in tiny Nicola at lunch and a different one at dinner. But once the family bought the trattoria Cervia in 1982, she and he