My best friend Angele, whose mother is from Malacca, learnt a while back that Malaysian kaya is golden while the Singapore version is green. The golden tinge derives from adding a dose of caramelised sugar while the green could stem from the egg yolks or pandan essence. The home-made kaya I grew up with was green and custardy. Kaya—bought in stores or served in chain cafes—is nowadays often golden and runny. Those of the older generation also remember kopi tiam kaya