Bar en Croûte

One of the pleasures of Normandy in the late Sixties and early Seventies was staying at the Hotel de la Marine on the edge of the Seine under the great curve of the Pont Tancarville. As the sun set and the lights went on the scene took on the noble simplicity of a Japanese woodcut. And there was dinner, cooked by Monsieur Morisse and including dishes like this one, to look forward to.

Bass is highly esteemed, but I find it a tricky fish. It can be too soft and it needs definition an