The “southern barbarians” referred to are the Portuguese and Dutch traders and missionaries who came to Japan in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. They showed the Japanese how to deep-fry fish and then pickle it in a spicy vinegar sauce. Any small river or lake fish, such as smelts or minnows, are tasty prepared this way, but I’m particularly fond of trout.
© 1988 Elizabeth Andoh. All rights reserved.