My Paris friend Bénédict told me I should go to Prune, a restaurant in New York, and order the sweetbreads. Well, I did, and I could see why he liked the restaurant so much. This tiny restaurant feels very much like Paris, with everyone happily sitting cheek by jowl—it’s an atmosphere that breeds camaraderie, and you end up chatting with your fellow diners. The chef is a woman, Gabrielle Hamilton
