Orecchiette with cauliflower

In Southern Italy, even the pasta has ears. Cauliflower tossed with olives, strengthened with chilli and linked with the ubiquitous tomato is a good match for the ear-shaped orecchiette. The much-maligned broccoli is also magnificent done in this manner. When cooking Sicilian or Sardinian pasta dishes that require cheese, try using grated pecorino at the table rather than the more northern Parmigiano, for the flavour of the deep south.