I pinched this technique from the gai laan madame’s trolley at yum cha. First, she blanches the cabbage in chicken broth, douses it with oyster sauce, and somehow manages to produce a platter of perfectly trimmed, neat cabbage, with glossy leaves on top and crunchy stems below, as the juices ooze out and mingle with the oyster sauce and create a light dressing. I can now do it at home, but it’s not the same without the trolley.