The Provençal olive relish called tapenade is deep-flavored and earthy. My French friends would never think of making their own, because they have so many good artisanal versions available to them, but here it’s wiser to make it at home. Tapenade is perfect picnic food, easily transported. Just add bread, cheese, and a bottle of wine. It’s also a great condiment with grilled or roasted chicken, lamb, or fish, or as a spread in a sandwich. For a quick snack or antipasto, drizzle a spoonful of tapenade, thinned with a little oil, over slices of fresh mozzarella or on hard-cooked eggs.