This is a dish representative of the developing style of my early years at Attica. It’s not a dish I would serve again, but I’ve included it to show the evolution of a young cook. I used to use an electric bong to produce smoke to fill an inverted glass that, among other things, contained a broth flavoured with smoked trout. I didn’t produce the dish as a provocation. The smoke actually served a purpose — the smoke under the glass cold-smoked the ingredients contained within. It was a great bit of theatre for our customers and showed them we didn’t take ourselves too seriously.