Crushed courgettes

This is lovely either as it is (or with a spoonful of yoghurt), as part of a mezze spread, or served alongside some lamb or chicken. If you can get hold of the pale, slightly pear-shaped courgettes (widely available in Middle Eastern grocers), then do: their skin is soft, so they’re easier to crush and bite through.

This dish can be made up to 1 day in advance, up to the point of the herbs and lemon being added. Keep in the fridge and add the herbs and lemon just before serving.