For anyone who thinks that this list of ingredients looks suspiciously long for a book of simple recipes, I’m actually feeling quite pleased with how I’ve managed to get the list down. My ability to buy up half the stock in an Asian shop when making noodle salads has been well documented in letters from some of my readers over the years, written to the Guardian.

All the elements can be made a few hours in advance – the onion and ginger can be made the day before – and just as