Alla svelta does not imply svelte or thin—it means in a hurry. I learned this procedure in fast-paced Milan, where people might only take 60 or 90 minutes for lunch instead of the 2 or 3 hours taken by the Bolognesi and the Romans. Though I wouldn’t use this sauce in elaborate preparations such as lasagne, it is fine for making a quick one-course meal of pasta, salad, and a glass of wine. Incidentally, I would never think of using this sauce when good fresh to
