Mulligatawny Soup with Rhubarb and Coconut

Literally meaning ‘pepper water’ (molaga tanni), mulligatawny was made by patient Indian cooks for British colonials who craved the familiarity of soup, even though it was not part of Indian cuisine. The British brought the recipe back to England and proceeded to wreak havoc with what was a judiciously spiced broth. It developed a dreary reputation – pieces of apple and inappropriate British vegetables floating in a flour-thickened liquid flavoured with curry powder.

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