A sunshine dish whatever the budget. In my view, it is the garnishing prawns/shrimp, gowned in full shelled splendour, that give this dish its fur-coat moment. The flavour legwork is done below, in folds of oozing golden rice, by humble, inexpensive fish, coaxed to impress by the odd clever ingredient. I use turmeric to coat the fish – it gives it an earthy, golden edge that carries beautifully into the paella. I find the turmeric a more substantial addition than the expensive and diaphanous saffron.