Preparation info
    • Difficulty


Appears in
The Plagiarist in the Kitchen

By Jonathan Meades

Published 2017

  • About

There’s a hackneyed observation that when someone close dies you recall important things which you kick yourself for not having spoken to them about. When my father died I frisked my brain and came up with nothing. The same when my mother died. Then, about a decade later, it occurred to me that the important thing I had always meant to ask her for was the recipe for the court-bouillon in which she used to cook eels and, sometimes, salmon. This approximation is equally good for veal and chic