By Jonathan Meades
The genuine article bulks out the almonds with almost as much bread. This dilutes the flavour of the almonds. So forget about the genuine article. Forget too about including grapes and vinegar.
Process the almonds and garlic to a dry mass that sticks to the sides of the bowl. Scrape into the centre of the bowl. Add water gradually till you have a soup-like consistency. Add sunflower oil (olive oil overpowers the almonds). Serve very cold.