Lax Pudding

The 1980s: Anna’s Place was a front-room restaurant somewhere between Islington and Dalston off the Balls Pond Road (home of The Honeycombs). The ‘new’ Scandinavian cooking (berries, grasses, seaweed, etc.) was far in the future. The ‘old’ Scandinavian cooking was heartening in its immutability. Outside the apes of Noma it still is. Witness Copenhagen’s splendid food market where little changes from year to year. Witness, on the other hand, the Norwegian conviction that jacket potatoes repr