Vitello Tonnato

This delicious, vaguely improbable and very simple dish is best done in quantity.

I thought it was well-known. A cosmopolitan bunch of guests – English, French, Turkish, Marseillais – recently disabused me of that proposition. None had even heard of it.

The questions you must ask are:

a) whether to roast the meat or simmer it and

b) whether to make a tuna sauce or a tuna mayonnaise.

The question I’m incapable of answering is where did I first eat it?