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Appears in
The Plagiarist in the Kitchen

By Jonathan Meades

Published 2017

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Schiffergeselschaft in Lübeck is one of Europe’s greatest restaurants. The beams of the former guildhall of that Hansa city’s sea skippers are aptly hung with a beguilingly complex fleet of model ships. In the telly series Magnetic North we filmed Schiffergeselschaft’s chef Gerhard Birnstingl making labskaus in, evidently, restaurant quantities. This recipe is guesswork based on watching him at work.

Germany without potatoes is as unimaginable as a repeat off