Game Timbale

This derives at several removes from sartu, devised for Naples’ Bourbon rulers by their local chefs the monzus (an approximation of monsieur which is also perhaps the source of that delightful form of address ‘Mush!’). The dish, too, is an approximation, an Italian rendering of French taste or a second-guessing of absolutist taste. Either way it is a bizarre hybrid and the very epitome of maximalist cooking; its recipe is an inventory, there are dozens of conflicting ingredients. Its