Cuisine gran’mère. Literally. My actual grandmother, Agnes Hogg, my mother’s mother, used, fag in mouth, to prepare this for Saturday lunch when, every other weekend, my mother and I would make the half-hour train journey from Salisbury to Southampton: West Dean, Lockerley, Dunbridge, Romsey, So’ton Central . . . the route excited me, part of it was that of the abandoned Southampton to Salisbury canal. But there never was a station at Lockerley and West Dean was mere
