In Lyon, of which it is a native, this dish goes under the name of gâteau de foies blonds, which perhaps sounds more appetising. Georges Blanc’s Ancienne Auberge at Vonnas, 50km north of the city, is the over-restored Germolene-pink Fabrique de Limonade which was run by his grandparents. The recipes pretty much date from the earlier decades of the 20th century. The gâteau is a culinary marvel, unbeatable – whi