Blandine Vié’s Testicules is Englished as Testicles: Balls in Cooking and Culture (Prospect Books). Giles MacDonogh, who translated it, rather astonished me with the intelligence that this delicacy of many names – joyeuses, rognons blancs, valseuses, amourettes, coquilles, etc. – is available from two butchers within a few minutes of his home in north London: Harry in Kentish Town and Cramer in York Way. Now, n
