Brains with Brown Butter

Preparation info
    • Difficulty


Appears in
The Plagiarist in the Kitchen

By Jonathan Meades

Published 2017

  • About

This is the only way to serve brains (and, for that matter, skate). In both instances brown butter is de rigueur and unimprovable.

Calves’ brains are larger and less fiddly than lambs’.


  • brains
  • butter
  • vinegar
  • capers


Put the brains in cold, salted, acidulated water for half an hour. You now need a dexterous, unsqueamish and preferably stoned kitchen intern to peel off the membrane and excise bone shards. This is time-consuming.

Put the brains in more cold, salted, acidulated water. Bring gently to a simmer. Poach them for 15 minutes.

Allow them to cool. Remove any bits of membrane that remai