Bacon-Grilled Enotake Mushrooms

Enotakes are the Modiglianis of mushrooms—long slender beauties with toothpick-thin stems and ivory-colored caps (they look like oversize straight pins). Their flavor is mild and woodsy, and best of all, enotakes come in cork-shaped clusters that are perfect for wrapping and grilling. The Japanese grill them in bacon; the Koreans in thin slices of soy-marinated beef (you’ll find the Korean version here). Either way, the contrast of sweet mushrooms and salty meat is a knockout.