Kurdish Grilled Pumpkin Dip

If Turkish barbecue were sushi, Zübeyir is the place you would want to eat it. You sit at a low table built around a charcoal-burning grill. Overhead is a massive copper hood embossed with scenes from the owners’ native Van in eastern Turkey. The grill master—one of the five brothers who own the restaurant—sits across and perhaps three feet away from you, grilling garlic- and paprika-crusted chicken wings or tiny lamb tenderloins spiced with yogurt and Aleppo peppers, or lamb’s liver season