Thai Chicken Satés

What’s your “Bingo!” moment? Mine is walking into a grill parlor where the flames leap up from the grill and where there’s standing room only, with scarcely a foreigner in sight—like Kuang Heng in Bangkok. Don’t be misled by the shop’s bare-bones decor, which runs to a wall-mounted Buddhist shrine, a handful of Formica tables, and the ubiquitous photos of Thailand’s king and queen. On any given night (the restaurant is open until 5 A.M.), you’ll feast on satés here in the company of Thai po