Vietnamese Grilled Bread

Her name was Hang Hon and she squatted over a charcoal brazier not much smaller than she was. A bread half on a stick was ready for grilling in one hand and a straw fan was in her other to fan the flames. A black wool cap on her head kept her warm in the Hanoi winter. Behind her: the Hanoi Botanical Gardens, where you can take in a unique Hanoi spectacle—a water puppet show at an open-air theater. (Water puppetry is a Vietnamese theatrical art, where the “stage” is a sort of shallow swimmin