Grilled Veal Chops with Sweet-and-Sour Onions

’Round about your fifth day of dining on the Italian barbecue trail you may find yourself tiring of the noble ideals of understatement, simplicity, and less is more. After all, you can eat only so much perfectly grilled but utterly unadorned steak. And even the most sweet, tender, delicately grilled veal chop becomes dull after a while for want of a sauce. Well, here’s the antidote: a specialty of Florence’s subterranean temple of simple grilled meats, Buca Lapi (for more on Buca Lapi, see