Onion-Stuffed, Spit-Roasted Pork Shoulder

“You know the rule, ” Dietmar says. “You don’t turn, you don’t drink.” Tourism guide and grill maniac Dietmar Brunk has kindly agreed to initiate me into the art of Obersteiner spiessbraten. The “turn” refers to a stint at the hand-cranked rotisserie in the spiessbratenhaus in his backyard. The drink is a glass of crisp, honeyed riesling, the wine for which the nearby Nahe wine region is famous. A speissbratenhaus (loosely translated as “grill hut”) is the first thing a