Serbian Stuffed Pork Loin

Don’t try to do official business in Belgrade on a Friday afternoon. Chances are, the government officials you need to see are busy stretching lunch into dinner at a restaurant like Dva Jelena (the Two Stags). If it’s 4 P.M., the dining room, with its ceiling timbers, massive stone walls, and tables with white cloths and crimson undercloths, will be jamming. As for dinner, “We Serbs like to eat until ten or eleven P.M., ” says proprietor Tomislav Ivanivic. “We drink until we keel over.” Iva