Whole Hog in the Style of a Greek Island

Some food experiences are so remarkable, they stay with you forever. Such was my first bite of the spit-roasted young hog at the Phillipas Taverna on the Greek island of Kea. Phillipas Maroulis is a farmer who turned pit master for the sole reason that he wanted to ensure that the pigs and lambs from his family farm would be cooked in a way that does them justice. I’m writing these words three days after my visit so I can still conjure up the experience: the skin of the pig, normally so tou