Whole Hog with Balinese Spices

Here’s the roast pork that made Ibu Oka (“Grandma Oka”) famous. More than thirty-five years ago, Ms. Oka started cooking babi guling (Balinese roast pig) in the courtyard of her home, and selling it to her neighbors. Today her granddaughter runs the business, which has morphed into an internationally renowned open-air restaurant. Home-raised hogs are seasoned with a fragrant paste of lemongrass, ginger, galangal, and turmeric. Babi guling is traditionally served with an aromat