Tuscan-Style Chicken Under a Brick

Pollo al mattone is supposed to be one of the glories of Tuscan grilling. So why can’t I find it anywhere in Florence? I ask for it at a half dozen restaurants in this medieval city on the Arno. Grill masters proudly gesture at massive hunks of beef, soon to be carved into bistecca alla fiorentina (grilled porterhouse steaks, see here), but no one seems to care about chicken under a brick. Until I say I must be mistaken—I must have been thinking of a dish from the Piedmont or