Serbian Chicken Bundles

Don’t look for the restaurant Don in a tourist guidebook to Belgrade. It’s a dive, a truck stop, my interpreter explains unapologetically. There’s nothing about the location—a garage and warehouse district—or the bare-bones decor to prove him wrong. But one sight of the unexpectedly immaculate kitchen, dominated by a charcoal grill on a masonry base, and one taste of the pljeskavica, a giant garlic- and chile-laced veal and beef burger (see recipe), or the pileći paketići, ham