Yakitori Like they Make it in Japan

There must be a thousand restaurants in Tokyo like the Izakaya-Tamotsu near the train station in the Chiyoda-Ku ward: eight stools lined up at an L-shape counter; two rickety tables with beer crates for chairs outdoors. This rough-and-tumble yakitori parlor serves up every imaginable cut of grilled chicken, from the leg, wing, neck, and skin to the liver, gizzard, heart, and embryonic eggs—and a great deal more, including asparagus and ginkgo nuts, tiny sweet potatoes, and eggplant topped w