Israeli Smoked Goose

I wager it’s been a while since you’ve seen goose on a restaurant menu, much less at a barbecue joint. But if this dark, rich, fatty bird has been reduced to the role of a nursery tale character in North America, it still enjoys wide popularity among the Israelis—especially those of Eastern European descent. (Until recently, Israel was a major producer and exporter of foie gras—another reason goose is so popular in that country.) So that’s why I’m fighting Friday night traffic from Tel Aviv