Virtually all of the recipes in this book come from grill masters or grill cultures—part of a cannon, as it were, that includes the greatest grilled dishes in the world. So indulge me if I give you one dish that exists more in my imagination than in the real world of barbecue, but that captures the spirit of Italy’s great grilling region, Tuscany. Think of it as a seafood riff on classic bistecca alla fiorentina (see here for a recipe). While I’ve never seen this dish on a menu in Tuscany, theoretically, you could find it in the great Tuscan sea and fishing port Livorno. (The same Livorno where pan-fried fish comes dressed up with capers and olives; I’ve given you this sauce as a serving option here.) Grill the tuna hot. Eat it rare. And get ready for a fish steak that can give a beef T-bone a run for its money.
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