• 4 superfresh thick tuna steaks (each about 1½ inches thick and 6 to 8 ounces)
• 1 tablespoon best-quality extra-virgin olive oil, plus ½ cup oil (optional), for serving
• Coarse sea salt and cracked black peppercorns
• Livornese Sauce
• Arugula, Endive, and Shaved Parmesan Salad

You’ll also Need

• Oak or olive wood for building a fire, or about 2 cups unsoaked oak or olive wood chips or chunks (optional)

Advance Preparation

None

1. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat it to high. Ideally, you’ll grill over wood embers (see here for instructions on grilling over a wood fire).
2. When ready to cook, if you are using a charcoal grill, toss the wood chips or chunks on the coals. If you are using a gas grill, add the wood chips or chunks to the smoker box or place them in a smoker pouch under the grate (see here). Brush and oil the grill grate. Lightly brush the tuna steaks on both sides with the 1 tablespoon of olive oil. (Lightly is the operative word here; too much oil and the fish will taste sooty.) Crust the fish with salt and cracked peppercorns, pressing them onto the fish.
3. Arrange the fish steaks on the hot grate and grill them until darkly browned on the outside but still very rare inside, 2 to 3 minutes per side. When done, the tuna should feel quite soft when poked. If desired, give each steak a quarter turn on each side after 1½ minutes to create a handsome crosshatch of grill marks.
4. Transfer the grilled fish steaks to a deep, attractive serving dish. If you are not using the Livornese Sauce, slowly pour the ½ cup of olive oil over them. Cut the tuna steaks crosswise into ¼-inch slices. Spoon all of the liquid that accumulates in the bottom of the dish over the sliced fish several times. Otherwise top it with the Livornese Sauce, if using. Serve the tuna at once, with the arugula salad on the side, if desired.