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Complex
Published 2010
What’s a Portuguese-style grilled fish doing at a Malaysian fish restaurant run by a woman in a black Muslim headscarf? Indulge me in a bit of history. For thousands of years (literally), Melaka on the west coast of mainland Malaysia has been a center of the spice trade, first with the Chinese, whose junks sailed around Singapore; then with Islamic merchants, whose dhows crossed the Indian Ocean; then with the Portuguese, who turned Melaka into an armed stronghold from which they wrested th
