Turmeric Grilled Prawns

If you want to experience authentic Malaysian grilled seafood, Azlinah Kudari is the woman you want to have prepare it. Recognizable by her black hijab (head covering) and a smile that lights up her face, Azlinah runs a waterfront restaurant in the Umbai Baru Floating Grilled Fish Village thirty-two kilometers south of the former spice trading city of Melaka. Umbai Baru is Malaysia’s answer to the hawker centers of neighboring Singapore—a clean, modern facility with plumbing, and run