Scampi Kebabs with Dalmatian Ham

I’m not sure anyone has ever described barbecue in terms of ballet, but that’s exactly what takes place each lunch and dinner behind the glass window that looks into the kitchen of Konoba Varos in Split, Croatia. What else would you call the complex dance of three master grillers working on one charcoal-burning grill, turning out hundreds of orders of grilled seafood and meat—with not a single fish fillet sticking to the grill grate? These grilled shrimp and ham kebabs epitomize Croatian gr