Hanoi-Style Grilled Squid with Chiles and Lime

Quan An Ngon is the sort of place that should be on every traveler’s wish list—a food court in the heart of Hanoi offering the vibrant flavors of Vietnamese street food in a clean, upscale setting. This is where Hanoi’s yuppies hang out: a tidy courtyard shaded from the Southeast Asian sun by mammoth umbrellas, with tables and Western-height chairs (the stools at most Vietnamese street stalls require uncomfortable squatting), and most importantly, refrigeration and running water for the cul